One of the most popular uses of industrial hemp is CBD oil - but the plant’s fibers are ideal for textile production. Hemp, as an environmental crop, can greatly contribute to sustainable goals needed in the fashion industry - creating yarns and textiles with exceptional properties like: durability, antibacterial, natural isolating and UV blocking characteristics… among many others,

How the fiber turns into yarn

Converting the hemp plant into yarn is a laborious process. Industrial hemp plants are cut and the stems are usually placed on the ground for several weeks so that retting takes place. This is a decomposition process by exposure to light and air. Retting can be done in water tanks to accelerate the process. Some companies might use enzymatic methods to accelerate the separation process.

Next step is removing the woody central core from the stem while the stems are still wet; in this case, the wet fibers are stripped away from the core and then dried. Alternatively, the stems can be dried and then processed with specialized machinery that breaks the woody core and separates it from the fibers.

Then fibers are removed from the field to process them and convert them into thread. Often, the fiber is woven without any complementary processing; however, some producers have developed mechanical processes that increase the softness or elasticity of the fibers.

Why is hemp sometimes rough

Lignin is a hard woody biopolymer that makes up 8-10% of the dry weight of hemp fibers and is responsible for the rough and scratchy touch of traditional hemp fiber. If lignin is removed, the resulting fiber is much smoother and softer. Lignin can be removed through enzymatic and microbial methods.

Spinning hemp fiber

Hemp fiber is spun like other natural fibers to form long, continuous threads, which are usually sealed with wax or a similar agent to make the final result waterproof or last longer.

At this stage of the process, other fibers can be added to the mix like wool, cotton, alpaca, silk. Traditionally, this process was done by hand, with a spindle and a spinning wheel.

Fabric production

Once we have the hemp yarn, 100% hemp or hemp blend with other fibers like cotton or silk, textile fabric can be produced weaving or knitting the yarn.

Although hemp now has to compete with a wide variety of alternative fibers - the improvement of processing techniques has revealed innovative uses for hemp textile products.

Why hemp is a sustainable fabric

Hemp as an environment crop has several advantages in producing higher yield per acres than cotton and other flax fibers, needs less water and uses little or no herbicides and pesticides. Also there are no GMO seeds and helps preserve soil from erosion. When combined these properties with natural dying and ethical textile production, the result is an exceptional sustainable fabric.

Fabric disposal matters

Hemp is a natural biodegradable fiber

Beyond production and disposal

Hemp can contribute to lower the carbon footprint in the fashion industry not only as an eco-friendly crop but when the garment is disposed. Hemp is a biodegradable fabric, which means it can be broken down naturally by bacteria. When recycled and after removing, tags, zippers and buttons it is compostable. Eco friendly fashion brands can label themselves compostable if between 60 to 90% of the product breaks down into CO2 within 180 days in a commercial composting facility. This also means that is a preferable option, from the sustainable point of view, to recycled synthetic fibers than use energy and production costs on the separation of plastics and new production that will have the risk again to end up in a landfill or on the ocean and it is no biodegradable.

Hemp has excellent properties to be used in the textile industry but still is not well known by the consumer. Decades of ban in planting hemp has contributed to the loss of expertise in producing hemp fabric that now needs to be recuperated to contribute to sustainable fashion.

Sustainable Fashion